Tuesday, August 16, 2011 Bar Harbor, Me 41 miles



Bar Harbor, August 16, 2011

What a fantastic day!! In spite of almost constant rain, I succeeded in completing the Northern Tier of the United Sates by bicycle. I wouldn’t have missed today’s ride for all the world! I had one flat, but Peg and Barb made quick work of changing it, and Michelle stopped by in the van to lend a hand with the big pump. I was back on the road in 20 min. and arrived Arcadia National Park Visitors’ Center just before eleven. From there we rode down to the wharf and took the obligatory pics. It’s a thrilling feeling to have made this journey, and I’m so grateful to all who followed me by blog and with prayers for good health and safety. They were answered over and abundantly.



Jean and me

Right after the pictures, I rode to the local bike shop where my Trek will be packed and shipped home. It will arrive in filthy condition from today’s rain, but I’m pretty good at cleaning it.

If it weren’t for the rain, I might take a walk around Bar Harbor. As it is, I can only mention what I saw riding in - the wharf and harbor, tourist shops galore, and restaurants galore. We’re staying at the BH Grand Hotel and ate lunch next door at The Chowdah House. I know there is a college here because I pitched my tent on the grounds back in 1998 or ‘99 when I was here for another bike trip.

Also, there’s Cadillac Mountain which I will not get to climb tomorrow to see the sunrise. (Almost wish I could stay an extra day to do this.) The top of Cadillac Mountain is the most eastern point in the United States to see the sun rise.

Our group had a reservation for dinner tonight at The Parkside Restaurant which is just a short walk from our hotel. We were given a choice of many entrees, inc. whole lobster, prime rib, crab cakes, chicken, salmon, etc. I enjoyed a delicious lobster, something I haven’t had since the last time I was in Bar Harbor. There were toasts and lots of pictures, and fat envelopes (I hope) for Michelle and Linda.

We did the entire Northern Tier

So, since 2007 I have traversed this beautiful country of ours a total of three times: 2007 from New Orleans to upper Minnesota, 2008 San Diego,  CA to St. Augustine, FL, 2010 Anacortes,  WA to Fargo, ND, 2011 Fargo, ND to Bar Harbor, ME.  There's nothing like seeing the mountains, desert, cliffs, corn fields, waterfalls, rivers and lakes from the saddle of a bike.  I'm very grateful for the privilege of good health and desire to do the traveling that I've been able to do.  I've been privileged, too, to meet many interesting and talented ladies who share my enjoyment of cycling.  They're a great group and I cherish their friendship.
More pictures tomorrow.

2011 NT:E SAG drivers

Monday, August 15, 2011 Bucksport, ME 63.5/86.3

Immediately upon leaving Bath, we crossed Kenebec River over a very long and very high bridge. Two gals got flats shortly after crossing - always a bummer. Our route took us off Rt. 1 onto back roads - sometimes rough, always with steep hills, and rarely with shoulders - what a challenge! We rode thru villages of Damariscotta, Waldeboro, Rockport, Camden and Searsport before arriving in Bucksport. Camden was especially memorable as it is a very popular tourist location with lots of good restaurants and activities. Since Camden is on the Atlantic, I saw a huge marina with some very large pleasure boats. I stopped at Cappy’s Bakery and enjoyed a delicious croissant filled with spinach and feta cheese and a cup of very good New England coffee. The chef was on the floor and expressed interest in my trip. Upon invitation, she sat down with me to hear more details. It’s amusing to me how so many are flabbergasted by the trips I’ve taken.

Entering Rockport and Camden, it seemed that the two towns sort of ran together. Anyway, we were routed along the absolutely beautiful streets of Russell and Bay View. Talk about High Cotton - this was Very High Cotton! I passed by so many gorgeous homes and flower gardens and stopped to talk to one lady who was weeding in a light sprinkle. She confirmed for me that I was still on Russell Street (there aren‘t many street signs).

Before Camden I had walked one hill and within ten more miles, I had walked two more. I was biking at 3.1 mph and walked at 2.9! That’s when I decided to give my knees a break and SAG in after 63.5 miles. I realized later that I actually did the most difficult part of the mileage.

Fort Knox

Penobscot Bridge

Penobscot River emptying into Atlantic

We’re staying tonight at the Fort Knox Park Inn; Susan is my roommate. 

(L-R) Susan, Robin

The view from our window is of Penobscott River, the beautiful bridge and Fort Knox. 

Jean, Nancy, Carolyn, Barb

The SAG drivers entertained us tonight with a clever song that Barb wrote entitled “How Long Does It Take To Do the Dishes?” sung to the tune of “How Much Is That Doggie In the Window?” This was a tribute to all those who helped them wash and dry the dishes every night. (I don’t remember helping but twice.)



Some may wonder what we do for ‘facilities’ on the road, so here’s a picture of one green room spot that I found today. I, for one, do about 15 squats each morning as part of my exercise routine. J )

Colorful 'green room'

Menu: Fantastic Spaghetti, Caesar Salad, French Bread w/Pesto Sauce, Cheesecake

Sunday, August 14, 2011 Bath, ME 67.3 miles

After a beautiful full moon last night, the day dawned beautifully and stayed sunny most of the day and dry all day. The hills, though - oh, my goodness --one steep climb or long downhill after another! Two of them got so steep near the top that if was get off or fall off time! I got off and walked to the top. I wondered if my poor knees would make some of the others. As with life, though, we only need to take one turn at a time, so I pushed forward, and, actually, really enjoyed the day. Besides lots of hills, Maine has lots of sand! All the shoulders are bordered by sand. Maine also seems to rival MN for the number of lakes. We passed some really beautiful and very large lakes and rivers today. Highland Lake, Long Lake, Saco River, Wood Pond, Androscoggin River - to name a few, and tomorrow there will be a lot more. Also today, we saw lots of farms, cows, vegetable gardens and truck farms.

I rode a little today with Mary, Jean, and Nancy, but hooked up with Sue and Lynda at the second SAG stop and completed the day with them. Their company, and each of us thinking about a lobster roll for lunch, was great motivation on the hills. We rode through the beautiful, historic town of Brunswick, ME, and past Bowdoin College, a small liberal arts school. After Brunswick, we were directed onto Androscoggin River Bike path - a very wide, paved path along the beautiful river.

Once in Bath and after checking into The Hampton Inn, Sue, Lynda and I walked across the street to the Kennebec Tavern which is right on the Kennebec River. Since the river empties into the Atlantic Ocean, we contemplated dipping our tires into the river and calling an end to the ride! Just kidding. . . I understand Bath is the center (what about Pascagoula?) of ship building for the world. The homes approaching our hotel were beautiful. . . Yes, my treat at lunch was a really, really good lobster roll.  

Lobster Roll

Me, Lynda, Sue

Oh, my! And, did I mention expensive? It was worth every penny. . . . Rooming tonight with Robin. Her mom had dinner with us the other night and brought delicious cookie treats.

Menu: Barbeque, Linda's To Die For Mac and Cheese, Slaw, and Assorted Desserts brought by Friends

One man's witness. . .

Saturday, August 13, 2011 Bridgton, ME 69 miles

Ellen and I have a lovely room this afternoon with a deck overlooking a large lake. The room is spacious and includes a fireplace (which we won’t need), a large dining table complete with lace tablecloth and comfortable beds. We’ve got the deck doors open as well as the front door, thus creating a fantastic breeze.

On the way up

This morning when we started out a little after 7 am, the temp was 54. Can you imagine? With a 12 mile climb up Kancamagus Pass, it didn’t take long to warm up. There was a 7% grade near the top which wasn’t too bad. The climb was just long and took most of us 1 hr. 45 min. The descent was 20 miles long with 7% grade for the first four miles. I took it easy until this was over and then opened up and let ‘er rip! Incredible fun! All this took place in The White Mountain National Forest.

12th State

Only moose siting

After the Pass, we rode thru Conway, NH (where folks come to view the colors in Oct.), crossed into Maine (our 12^th state) near Fryeburg. Our route took us deep into the ME woods on Hardscrabble Rd., then Chadbourne Hill Rd. We were forewarned about the very rough pavement, but NOT about the half mile of gravel. Somewhere in this area, we caught up with a father/son pair who have crossed the entire country since June 17 and will reach the coast when we do. They’re riding recumbent bikes and camping 4 out of 5 nights. As you can see from the picture, they are self-contained. Coincidentally, they are from Brattleboro and Ellen knows the father from a professional meeting a few years ago. They’re both teachers.  

X-Country father and son

Congregational Church

Jake is a senior in high school. What memories they’ll have from this wonderful journey together.  


Bridgton has some lovely, old homes and sits high above beautiful Highland Lake. As I rode past the lake, there were what looked like hundreds of families enjoying the water and activities for children - probably the last Saturday before school starts. Because it is Saturday, traffic was terrible today. Nearly every car was loaded with bikes and kayaks.

Ellen - blogging

Only three more days of cycling. The weather lately has been really beautiful as have the vistas.   I'm really enjoying the cool nights and early mornings. 

Our last state line crossing

Enjoyed sitting with Lesley's guest tonight at dinner. Joanne Dillard, who lives in Bridgton, did the ST with Lesley is '06.  She's also done a lot of hiking including the AT in sections.  She's interested in hiking across Great Britain, something that interests me. . . .  The moon is supposed to be full tonight.  I doubt that I'll be up long enough to see it.      
Menu:  Pad Thai, Cucumber salad, Quinoa (left-over), Blueberry Pie

Friday, August 12, 2011 Lincoln, NH 63 miles

Connecticut River

Conn. R. - another view

Ah . . . Cool days in New England! What a treat! I began the day in my new wind jacket, but it came off by 9 AM which was after a few good climbs. The hills today were rolling, steep and/or LONG, but always fun, especially the descents. I can’t believe I just said that! We left White River Junction (confluence of White and Connecticut Rivers) and rode for quite some time along the Connecticut River - so pretty, calm and peaceful. We saw several groups out practicing the sport of sculling in what’s called a shell (canoe-like boat).

Nancy

Then, we crossed the river into New Hampshire (no sign, but you know what a new state means for us tonight!). Going along River Rd., we came across the Road Closed sign. Shortly afterwards, the surface turned to hard-packed dirt for at least a mile which was, fortunately, easy to ride on.

SAG stop on Conn. R.

Kit

Jean found this farm site for our first SAG stop.

Covered bridge

Next, we came down a steep hill to find this covered bridge.

New Hampshire landscape

Notice the threatening sky in my landscape pic. The day stayed overcast but never rained on us.

The second SAG stop was next to a field with our donkey friends. See the cross on his back? The donkeys enjoyed Nancy’s treat.

Nancy feeding the donkeys

www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/wilderness/58/cross.html

Big house

How would you like to live in this NH home?

The barn and garage were almost as big.

What moose?

This was the third moose sign I’ve seen, but, regrettably, no ‘mooses.’

The rushing brook was pretty and a welcome stop along a very long, but graded, sometimes 7% climb.

Beaver Pond

I stopped again to get two pics of Beaver Pond where I saw a beaver dam but no beaver.

Beaver Pond

Just before I started down the two mile descent, I stopped for this vista pic. The next two shots are inside Woodstock Inn where I had lunch with Elizabeth and Peggy.

Train on a beam

Finally saw a moose!

Ann found Hershey today

Lesley and me

Kancamagus Motor Lodge

Thursday, Aug. 11, '11 White River Junction, VT 40/67 miles

Jean starts up the Pass

Truck on cheese

Another buffet breakfast got us off to a good start around 7:30 today. Five miles out we expected to begin a significant climb followed by an even more significant descent. At about mile 10, the road leveled out but then at 18 miles, it went into a 12-15% climb just before the real summit. I must admit to walking a short distance in the very beginning, but managed the rest just fine. Actually, the descent was more difficult for me than the climb. I went slowly and feathered my brakes all the way thru the turns and around the rough pavement. We road past beautiful Bread Loaf Inn which I’m told is part of Middlebury College. All of the conference facilities were painted a peculiar yellow which was quite lovely against the backdrop of the Green Mountains. (See pic)
At the bottom of the Pass, I stopped at a quirky little hotel and enjoyed a carrot muffin and cup of coffee while sitting in the sunshine on the side porch. Mistake!! The muffin began to do a number on my stomach and by mile 40, I was in serious pain and sagged in. Long story short - I’m over the pain and feeling just fine again.

The most cluttered shop . . .

In Rochester, VT, (mile 24) I stopped by the Green Mountain Bike Shop to (again) get my shifting tweaked. This time it was determined that I need a new left shifter unit ($240+). Although the shop had the part, I decided to live with the issue til I get back to BikesPlus. My friends tell me it’s time to ditch this bike! I’ve complained about the shifting since it was new in ’07.

To digress . . . Most of today’s ride was along the beautiful White River, aptly named as it was full of white rapids, and across The Green Mountains. The high today is only 78 (sorry, Memphis), and the sky has been mostly sunny.   

White River and rapids

Green Mtn. forest

Green Mountains

Menu:  Shepherd's Pie (w/sweet potatoes, broccoli, onion, carrots, ground turkey), Carrot Salad (w/fennel, pineapple, mayo), Red Grapes, Homemade Cookies (sent from CA)